Many, many patterns in Vogue are for knit fabric, but the instructions don’t discuss sewing with a serger and I’m not sure I altogether like some of the instructions for constructing clothing with a conventional machine. Seriously, if the pattern requires 2-way stretch fabric, then the garment shouldn’t need a zipper. Or bias tape around necklines. Bottom line: I have to get better at sewing with my serger. I have a tiny fraction of the experience working with a serger as compared to sewing with a conventional machine, but all it takes is practice, right? Out of my huge stack of new patterns, I chose V8663 to start. I browsed the sale fabric rack looking for 2-way stretch and found something that wasn’t too atrocious-looking or expensive.
Knowing I was going to construct the garment with my serger, and I don’t use the cutter (too scary!), I sized down two sizes to take seam allowance into consideration (size 6 in bust, grading up to 10 in waist), but I still had to take in the side seams about 3/4 inch on each side, as well as adjust the waist upward, despite shortening the bodice at the designated location. I omitted the zipper, cutting the back bodice and skirt pieces on the fold where the pattern designated “center back”. I only tacked down the pleats at the top edge of the neckline (with my conventional machine)–the instructions were completely hazy on this point. The pleats are a little wonky, but the print is crazy enough to hide the flaws!
I was planning on making the version with sleeves, but went with self-binding (1.5 inch width, folded in half) at the neckline and armholes. It turned out fine, a huge improvement over the standard bias tape that was suggested, but it could be better (more practice needed!) The pattern didn’t call for it, but I made a self-belt to break up that belly area. Finally, the hem is unfinished. I don’t love it, but I also don’t know if I want to tackle it!
|Photo-bombed by my 7 year old!|
Overall, I liked the pattern a lot–if I had more experience with slinky knits, it would have been super to quick to sew up. The slightly crazy fabric was my savior, though–it hides several mistakes 🙂 The neckline and silhouette are flattering, and it’s super comfortable! Win!
2 thoughts on “Vogue patterns: V8663”
How did I miss this post before? You amaze me. I haven't tackled a dress for myself in ages, let alone anything in knit. I really must get a serger. And do you have a dressform for sizing patterns? Since I'm not any one size, I'd have to size patterns and that frightens me just a little bit. You are incredible – LOVE the dress.
Thanks, Jennie! No, I don't have a dress form–I just spend lots of time getting dressed/ undressed and standing in front of mirrors pricking myself with pins!