amazing fit, britex, handmade wardrobe, pants, sewing, simplicity, trousers, tweed, wool

Tomato wool tweed trousers

Initially, I had envisioned this tomato and pink wool tweed fabric from Britex for the perfect chic work dress, but since said chic dress pattern is not in existence (yet…), the fabric sat for a while.  I’ve tossed a couple of ill-fitting wool pants recently, so this fabric seemed like a fun option with which to replace them.

The pattern is Amazing Fit trousers (Simplicity 8056).  I like that this pattern series acknowledges that people carry weight differently, and the pattern has three “fits”: slim, average, and curvy. Admittedly, I had originally tried this pattern in the “slim” category, since my hip measurement is proportionally smaller than my waist measurement when compared to the “standard”.  However, the back waistband would pull downward, so it was clear my bum is (much) bigger than I had thought (hoped!).  I went with the average category this time around and the fit was better, with still some tweaking to do.  I also did a bit of a petite adjustment, which amounted to, essentially, shortening the rise in the front and back.  In previous iterations, fabric in the crotch area was kind of pooling below the zipper.   I am *almost* at the goal of perpendicular side seams.

This pattern does not come with back pockets, so I added some single welt pockets.
With extreme close up, to show the fabric a little better.
I also added a full lining (Bemberg rayon, of course) to these trousers, since it is pretty much unacceptable for me to wear wool without a lining.  I’m not allergic or anything, it just annoys the poop out of me.  
Here’s the waistband, with zip fly and double bar closures (+ snap).  I’m locked in there!  
At this point, I may still take the length up a teeny bit (like less than 1/2″).  Depending on my shoes, they sometimes hit the ground in the back, but it’s definitely a fine line.  
Oh hey, I made the top, too.  This is a self-drafted pattern to replicate a Banana Republic one I wore into the ground.  It’s still in the early stages of drafting, but it goes well with these pants (unlike most everything else in my wardrobe!).
And here they are on my mannequin with leg stumps.  I’ve never used my dressmakers form for pants, and they actually fit!  Of course, it’s a fiasco to get them on and off, but once in a while isn’t a big deal.
I’m a few critical steps closer to my goal of a perfectly fitting trouser pattern, so I can make a shiny new pair of wool trousers for the start of school each year 🙂 I need to clear up the extra fabric under my bum there, but I have a plan of attack for the next version.  
I’m also working on trying to get a well-fitted pair of cropped slim leg pants, and that is coming along significantly less well…evidence coming up.

14 thoughts on “Tomato wool tweed trousers”

  1. you have been getting a lot of lovely sewing done. I have this pattern and used it years ago and at the time I was pleased with the fit (I chose curvy and adapted the waist), when I went to sew my cigarette pants I drafted another pattern as I wanted a tighter fit at the thigh and higher on the waist – These are a lovely pair of trousers and look great

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  2. What's your plan for dealing with that extra fabric? I have the same problem and have yet to find a good solution. I made a try-anything muslin with a vertical dart running down my back thigh, but that's not really so practical.

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  3. Well…they're pretty darn close to perfect fitting! I wouldn't have noticed if you hadn't published the last pic. I too, am working on a perfect fit trouser…I'm using Sewaholic's Thurlow trousers…and having some similar issues.

    Lovin' that colour!

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  4. Emily–my best idea was to decrease the length of the back crotch curve. If you picture the back crotch curve as an “L” for the sake of description, the horizontal part of the crotch seems longer compared to other patterns and pants that fit well. So, my plan was to reduce the length of that and take in the inseam a bit, too. We'll see if that works!

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  5. I know–the color is spectacular! Wore it with a heather grey 3/4 sleeve fine-gauge sweater and it worked really well!

    If you're having trouble with excess fabric under the bum, then I suspect it might be from a long crotch depth (not length). Compare the pattern piece to a pair of pants that fits well….

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