handmade wardrobe, pants, pattern drafting, patternmaking class, resewlution 2014, sewing, trousers, wool

Self-drafted trousers: two brown versions

Wearable muslin (left) and final draft (right).  Slight changes make a big difference!

As part of my patternmaking class, we were tasked with drafting a pants sloper from measurements (I used my own) and then creating a “style” from that basic pattern.  The process of drafting pants isn’t too difficult, if you just accept that multiple drafts are required!

This first pair is my “wearable muslin” after doing some true rough drafts.  They have a yoke-like waistband, zipper fly and front pockets.  The assignment required front and back creases, which I normally wouldn’t add, but actually quite like.  My back creases are off, but I haven’t yet fixed them (if I can even un-crease them).

The fabric is a medium weight wool tweed in a herringbone pattern.  In the photos it appears gray, but they are actually brown.

I underlined the entire pair with dark brown rayon Bemberg, so they are super comfortable.
The back has only small darts and no pockets.

And here you can see my issue with this “wearable muslin”–the back waistband dips at center back. So, I added length to the back rise and made a new pair of pants, the ones I actually turned in for a grade.

These are made with light-medium stretch wool from Britex. The fabric is nice and smooth, so I didn’t bother lining them.

Both pairs have been worn to work already, and I love them!  Very versatile, comfortable, and classic in shape.

And here’s the inside waistband, finished in rayon seam binding.
Phew, that was a lot of brown trouser!  For my next class project (due tomorrow), I drafted and sewed a cross-front leotard our of lycra knit.  I’m not sure I’ll be posting images of that because despite fitting well, it’s not the most lovely garment on my body (and looks a little wacky on a hanger)!  Then, for the next two weeks, I’ll be working on my final project: a full suit, drafted to my own measurements.  I’ve made all the components at least once already for my classwork, but I’ll be tweaking the patterns a bit for my own aesthetic.  Very exciting!
Resewlution 2014, November garments #3 and 4.  

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