Okay, okay, I’ve made self-drafted garments before (cute skirt and embellished top), but this one feels official. After only 2 months of pattern making class, I didn’t feel completely ready to rush into a full garment, but on Tuesday I went to make a dress (On the Go Dress, by Monaluna). After cutting out the bodice in XS and holding it up to my dress form, I was super disappointed to find that it was way too big, (and not in a way I could likely fix). Ugh! I still really, really wanted a shirt-dress, so ready or not, the time had come to bite the bullet and draft my own.
In pattern making class, everything we do starts with tracing a sloper (essentially a template of bodice, skirt or sleeve of a particular set of measurements). My sloper set is size 8, so I can’t use it for my own clothing, so I set out to make my own sloper. A while back I took a Moulage drafting class, so I pulled out the completely unused products of that (a flat pattern of my exact measurements), my ease worksheets from pattern making class, and drew up front and back bodice and skirt slopers. Just. For. Me.
Here’s my size 8 pattern slope from class (measurements: 37-27.5-39) behind my own (measurements: 34-26-36). The most significant difference is the length. Clearly, at 5’1″, I’m petite! Also, the waist dart intake is significantly less than the standard, owing to my smaller than average bust.
This dress pattern is simple enough when starting with a bodice sloper. I maintained the single waist darts, but created a back yoke. It took 2 versions to get the fit right. It seems a bit loose, but I didn’t want the snaps popping open when I sat down! For the sleeve, I used the measurements of the actual pattern pieces and the general shape of my pattern sloper.