bemberg, handmade wardrobe, mens clothing, mood, outerwear, pattern testing, sewing, thread theory, wool

Pattern testing: Goldstream Peacoat by Thread Theory

When I first “discoveredThread Theory and their solid line-up of patterns, I was impressed and excited: stylish menswear!  What a concept!  So when they had a call for pattern testers for their newest pattern, the Goldstream Peacoat, I just had to respond, and was fortunate enough to be chosen to do it. Lucky me!  Never mind, of course, that I was (am!) overwhelmed with “real” work and other sewing projects (including the Britex tie/ pocket square)!

The pattern itself produces a stylish and modern coat, with many options (some of which I didn’t add to my husband’s jacket, such as epaulets).  The pockets on the front are super clever; they are actually two pockets together, one with top entry (with a flap) and the other side entry.

The details of the jacket make it exciting and interesting to sew.  Button tabs on the sleeves?  How professional does that look??
I love all the topstitching around the front, lapels and collar.  Sure, I broke 5 topstitching needles in the process of sewing the jacket (not just this topstitching, don’t worry!), but I was sewing through some serious layers in some spots!
I used shoulder pads!  And they make such a huge difference: especially on a man, a jacket just hangs better with shoulder pads.  And check out that hood, with the small leather buttons.  LOVE.
The arms are constructed of two pieces, and are beautifully contoured to the arm shape.
The pattern is great, as is, but I made some slight changes to suit my own preferences.  First, I underlined the main body (not the arms) with flannel to support the fabric a bit better, and second, I actually made all 6 buttons functional.  It makes it a bit of a pain to button them all up, but after making my own jacket with several non-functional buttons, I felt like it looks better.
For fabric, I used a chocolate brown wool melton, purchased locally and for a steal at $20/yard, with moss green Bemberg lining from Mood.  
The lining looks messy at the hem in the photo, but it’s actually really nice and straight (and hand sewn!) in real life.
One of my favorite tiny details of the jacket is the back neck facing: it was designed to encourage the sewist to add their own little design touch for the label.  
I used a little scrap of some wool-silk upholstery fabric and my little “z as in zebra” label.  
I am in love with the results of this pattern and I can seriously recommend it (once it’s released, of course!).  Another hurray to Thread Theory for helping us sewists clothe the males in our lives in stylish handmade wares!

8 thoughts on “Pattern testing: Goldstream Peacoat by Thread Theory”

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